Do Skateboard Riser Pads Make Your Board Better?

A wheel stopping dead against your deck halfway through a turn is a fast way to lose confidence - and sometimes skin. Skateboard riser pads create extra space between the deck and lorries, giving larger wheels more room to turn before wheel bite becomes a problem. They are a small, affordable part, but the right pair can make a custom setup ride properly.

They are not essential on every skateboard. For a standard street deck with 50-54mm wheels and a sensible lorry setup, you may not need them at all. For cruisers, transition boards, rough-ground setups and riders using bigger wheels, risers can be the difference between a smooth carve and an unexpected slam.

What skateboard riser pads actually do

Riser pads sit between the skateboard deck and the baseplate of each lorry. Their main job is to lift the deck higher above the wheels. That increased clearance helps prevent wheels touching the underside of the board when you lean hard into a turn.

They also change the feel of the board slightly. Raising the deck increases your standing height, so pushing and popping can feel marginally different. Soft rubber-style pads can take some edge off road vibration, while hard plastic risers mostly focus on clearance. Neither type will transform rough tarmac into a skatepark surface, but they can make a cruiser setup feel less harsh.

The trade-off is simple: more height gives more wheel clearance, but it also raises the centre of gravity. Most riders adjust quickly, yet a very tall stack can make a board feel less planted. Choose the smallest riser that solves the problem rather than adding height for the sake of it.

When do you need skateboard riser pads?

The clearest reason to fit risers is wheel bite. Look for fresh curved marks above the wheels on the underside of your deck, or notice whether a wheel rubs when you stand on the board and lean hard to either side. If it catches while riding, deal with it before your next proper session.

Wheel size is the next factor. Smaller street wheels usually leave plenty of room. Once you move into 56mm wheels and above, clearance depends much more on your deck shape, lorry height, bushings and how loose you ride your lorries. A cruiser using 60mm or 65mm wheels will often need riser pads, particularly with low lorries.

Risers are also useful for boards built for distance and everyday rolling. Bigger, softer wheels carry speed over cracks, paving slabs and rough paths better than small hard wheels. The extra clearance lets you enjoy those benefits without constantly worrying about the wheel meeting the deck.

Transition skaters may use larger wheels for speed in bowls, ramps and parks. Whether risers are needed comes down to the setup. High lorries, wheel wells and firmer bushings can all create enough room without them. Test the board rather than assuming a particular wheel size always requires a pad.

Choose the right riser thickness

Riser pads are commonly available in sizes such as 1/8 inch, 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch. A thinner pad is a good starting point when you only need a little additional clearance. It keeps the board close to its original height and is often enough for moderately larger wheels.

A 1/4-inch riser is a practical middle ground for many cruiser and all-round setups. It adds noticeable space without making the board feel dramatically taller. Half-inch risers are more specialised, generally suited to very large wheels, particular carving builds or setups with low lorries.

Do not choose by thickness alone. Lorry height matters. A high lorry can accommodate a larger wheel than a low lorry with the same deck, while shaped decks with wheel wells provide extra room where it counts. Your weight and bushing hardness matter too: softer bushings and looser lorries allow deeper turns, which increases the chance of wheel bite.

Hard risers or soft shock pads?

Hard risers are usually plastic and provide consistent height. They are a straightforward choice when clearance is the goal, especially for street, park and cruiser builds.

Softer pads are often called shock pads. Made from rubber-like materials, they compress slightly and can reduce some of the vibration passed from the road to the deck. They are popular for cruising, but their compression means they may provide a little less effective clearance under a hard lean than a similarly sized hard riser.

For most riders, the decision is practical. Choose hard pads for dependable wheel clearance. Choose softer pads if road feel and vibration reduction are priorities, while making sure the setup still has enough space at full turn.

Check your hardware before fitting risers

Adding skateboard riser pads means the bolts that hold your lorries to the deck must pass through more material. Hardware that fitted without pads can become too short once a riser is installed. The nut should thread on fully and securely - do not rely on a couple of threads just because the board looks assembled.

As a general guide, 7/8-inch hardware often works with no risers or very thin pads, while 1-inch bolts commonly suit 1/8-inch risers. Thicker pads may require 1 1/4-inch or longer hardware. This is a guide, not a fixed rule, because deck thickness, baseplate design and bolt head shape vary.

Once fitted, check that all eight nuts are tight and that no bolt is sticking up enough to interfere with your feet. A skate tool makes this a quick job. Recheck the hardware after your first few rides, particularly if you have changed several parts of the setup at once.

Riser pads are not the only answer to wheel bite

If your wheels are catching, risers are often the easiest fix, but they are not always the best first move. Tightening the kingpin nut slightly reduces how far the lorries turn. Swapping to firmer bushings can offer support without making the board feel completely stiff. Choosing smaller wheels is another option if you mainly skate technical street and want to keep a lower ride height.

Decks with wheel wells or wheel cut-outs are designed to create clearance around the wheel area. On a shaped cruiser deck, these can make a big difference. You can also use higher lorries, although that changes the steering characteristics and may mean replacing more than one component.

Avoid relying on wheel bite marks as a permanent solution. Some light rubbing may happen on a deeply carved board, but a wheel that locks when weight is over the board is a safety issue. If the setup stops abruptly in a turn, make a change before riding faster hills or busier routes.

A quick setup check before you ride

With the board on level ground, stand on it and lean gradually heel-side and toe-side. Ask a friend to watch the wheel clearance if possible, or inspect the underside afterwards. Do this with the lorries at the tension you actually ride - testing a tight lorry and then loosening it for the session tells you very little.

Make sure both lorries turn freely and evenly. A riser pad cannot correct damaged bushings, bent hardware or a cracked baseplate. If the deck has deep wheel-bite grooves, inspect it closely too. Superficial marks are common, but deep damage around the lorry area deserves attention.

The best setup is the one that suits where and how you skate. A low street board feels different from a soft-wheeled cruiser, and that is the point. If larger wheels, looser carving or rough UK paths are part of your ride, choose riser pads and hardware that give you room to turn with confidence. Proline Skates stocks the specialist components to help keep every board rolling properly.